Type Two Fun - “Funning” Seoul City Wall

 

Monday, September 2, 2024

 

Chris and I had one goal today … just not matching goals. I’m determined to complete the six sections of Seoul’s City Wall - all in one shot. Chris is referring to it as our “fun run” (aka funning) so I know secretly he is excited. Since we are on vacation, I’m labeling this “Type Two Fun,” defined as fun in hindsight but not in the moment, but for me it was absolutely Type One Fun and the kind of adventure I love adding to my travels!

 

In good shape from marathon training, my only concern about completing the challenge was the hot weather. We are so lucky that the weather is only 74 degrees today, dropping 15 degrees from the past few days. Some of the trail is shaded but the other parts are equally in direct sun. And for once I was welcoming cloud cover!

 

If you are thinking about doing the Seoul City Wall in its entirety, I’d say it’s a cross between the hikes to Upper Yosemite Falls (for the 3,500 feet elevation gain) and Half Dome (for the total distance).

 

My original intention was to take a mini day trip from Seoul to hike to the top of Bukhansan, the guardian and the highest peak among all the mountains around Seoul. Then I discovered the opportunity to connect all six sections of the Seoul City Wall Trail in one single go! Note: The information centers where you supposedly check in were uninhabited and a passport is no longer required.

 

“Hanyangdoseong,” Seoul City Wall, was originally 11.6 miles long and built in 1396 (Joseon period) on the mountain ridges of Seoul (Namsan, Naksan, Bugaksan/Baegaksan, and Inwangsan). The wall is divided into six sections. The website estimates a combined total of ~11.5 hours to walk all sections of the trail but I knew we could do it in much less. Here is a useful website for planning any or all of the sections: https://seoulcitywall.seoul.go.kr/en/content/72.do

 

We chose Sungnyemun Gate near City Hall and Seoul Station as our starting point and went counterclockwise towards Seoul Tower.

 

Historically there were eight gates along the wall.  The trail passes through its four main gates and four auxiliary gates. Two of the gates are now destroyed, although the others are still standing. The four main gates were literally the only ways to enter or leave the ancient city of Seoul.

 

Although I selected “outdoor run” on Strava, as we entered Namsan Park, I quickly realized this was going to be more of a hike/run.

 

View from Seoul Tower ... Oh my gosh! Before we are through, we will have hiked all the way along those (inner) mountains!

 

The section through Namsan Park follows almost completely along the wall and allows you to see all four of the wall’s construction types.

 

Sign explaining the different construction types of the Seoul City Wall.

For people with any sort of physical fitness ability, I highly recommend the section of the Seoul City Wall trail through Namsan Park.  At a minimum, take the cable car up to the top and walk down the other side.

 

While building the wall, they inscribed the stones with construction details. This inscribed stone in Namsan Park states that this part of the wall was constructed in 1709 as well as the names of the officials in charge.

 

In the city proper where the wall no longer exists, the City of Seoul has installed signs and markers to guide you. Mr. Map Chris had no problem navigating us through those areas.  (Trying to figure out where the Seoul City Wall trail goes next makes for a lot of resting points.)

 

Follow the signs that say, “Excursion Trail of Hanyangdoseong”, especially helpful in the city sections where the wall no longer exists.

 

Placards on the ground reassure you that you’re on the right path.

 

 “Oh my gosh, you’re so funny,” Chris declared, looking at the map five miles in. He is referring to the fact that I told him the total distance was 11.5 miles. How was I to know we wouldn’t be following the exact path of the original wall?! Chris estimated we had another 10 miles to go. (He was right.)

Reaching the next gate - Gwanghuimun Gate.  Another 10 miles and 6 gates to go!

 

We always chose the “inner” wall path. After Heunginjimun Gate, in hindsight we should have chosen the outer path which directly connects to the next gate (Hyehwamun Gate). The inner path trail bluntly ends, forcing you to walk down into the city to meet back up with the trail at the next gate.

 

Heunginjimun Gate has one of the best photo opportunities along the wall.

 

Right after Hyehwamun Gate, the (inner) wall parallels a delightful park that pipes in music through speakers disguised as rocks.

 

After Hyehwamun Gate, the trail climbs up into the mountains and stays pretty isolated until you get back down to Cheongun-dong on the other side. Make sure you have plenty of food and drink before you enter this section. (There are a few bathrooms along it.) While this part of the trail is usually a highlight, right now its construction and the detour detracts a bit from it.

 

How ingenious is this! A compressed air station to cool you off! (Next to one of their many outdoor gyms.)

 

Up. Then down. Get used to it!

 

Forced to take a detour along the Bugaksan section, we had no idea where we were going and it didn't feel right. Except we could see from our map that eventually we could meet back up to the wall trail near Changiumun Gate.

The Seoul City Wall trail Bugaksan section from Changiumun Gate (to walk clockwise) starts with a detour.

 If you are short on time and just want to do the best part of the route, regardless of difficulty, then I recommend the Inwangsan Mountain Trail between the site of Donuimun Gate and Changuimun Gate.

 

The Inwangsan Mountain Trail is definitely the most technical part of the loop, with a gain of ~1,100 feet, and offers the most incredible views of the city.

 

The view of Inwangsan Mountain Trail from Seoul Tower makes the Seoul City Wall trail look so imposing and steep!

We didn’t make it into the grounds of Gyeongbokgung Palace during our Seoul visit but we could see all of it from here!

 

Despite being able to see Inwangsan Mountain from Seoul Tower, I think the views over Seoul are best from here.

 

It felt amazing to complete the entire Seoul City Wall hike and made for a great finale to our trip!

 

When I asked Chris which segment he liked, he just smiled and replied, “being done.”

 

It took us a total of 5 hours and 45 minutes from start to finish. Strava recorded our moving time as 3 hours and 27 minutes. That means we took over 2 hours stopping to take pictures, waiting for stoplights, refilling water, going to the bathroom, and the biggest chunk of it trying to figure out directions. Our average pace was 13:15 minute miles. The elevation gain was 3,514 feet. Total miles were 15.62.

 

Back in Hongdae we had a late lunch at NooNaHolDak Hongdae - Oven Chicken & Beer. We got half spicy/half soy sauce chicken breast and rosé tteokbokki (spicy rice cakes) for ~ ₩27,000.

 

A few hours later we had a tasty dinner at Katsup Katsu & Curry & Noodle (~ ₩9,000 each).

 

Photobooth stores are everywhere in Korea, all with silly props.  “Giwa Film” in Hongdae on the corner of Sinchon-ro and Yanghwa-ro includes hanbok props.

 

Chris didn’t want to leave Korea without having some bingsoo so the last thing we did on our trip was go to Sul-bing (₩12,900). We leave for the airport early tomorrow morning!

 

Bingsoo - shaved frozen milk with a sweet topping - is an addictive dessert! Do not miss having it while you’re in Korea!